Rebirth of the Fashion King

In 2009, Chanel's creative and brand headquarters (the Rue Cambon complex in Paris) was located in the upscale Saint-Honoré business district of Paris, adjacent to Place Vendôme and the Ritz Paris, in the heart of Paris's traditional haute couture industry.

1910年香奈儿女士在此开设首家女帽店，1918年买下31号整栋建筑，1927年逐步扩张为5栋连片的品牌总部集群。

The building is a classical 18th-century structure and represents the core spirit of the Chanel brand.

The floor layout in 2009 was consistent with that of the Coco Chanel era, with only minor optimizations by Karl Lagerfeld in the original style.

The ground floor (rez-de-chaussée in France, equivalent to the first floor in China) is the global flagship boutique, displaying and selling a full range of products including handbags, clothing, jewelry, accessories, perfumes and cosmetics. It served as the design prototype for all Chanel stores worldwide, establishing the classic black, white and beige color scheme for the store.

The entrance is located on one side, marking the starting point of the iconic mirrored staircase.

The first floor (French Premieretage, equivalent to the second floor in China) is a high-end bespoke salon area, including 3 main salons and multiple VIP exclusive fitting rooms. It is the core space for high-end bespoke clients to try on clothes and privately showcase their collections.

The space is decorated primarily in white, black, and beige, and features exclusive fitting high heels and is always adorned with white bouquets, a favorite of Coco Chanel. Early Chanel haute couture shows were held here, and in 2009 it continued to serve as a fitting center for haute couture and a venue for high-end client reception.

The second floor (deuxièmeétage in France, equivalent to the third floor in China) was Gabrielle Chanel's private residence, where she received guests and worked from 1935 to 1971 (staying overnight at the Ritz Hotel in Paris across the street).

In 2009, it remained completely sealed in its original state and was not open to the public, except for brand friends, top VIPs and important guests.

The space comprises four core areas: the entrance hall, study, living room, and dining room. The core furnishings include an oriental ebony lacquered screen, a beige suede sofa, a Prussian-style crystal mirror, a crystal chandelier inlaid with double C and camellia elements, a gold lion ornament, and a wheat ear-shaped coffee table, among others. It also houses a large collection of art treasures and private collections.

The third floor (the French troisièmeétage, equivalent to the fourth floor in China) is the core creative studio, Karl Lagerfeld's main office and creative space, and also the location of the core design department for the brand's haute couture and ready-to-wear collections—where Li Xun and Virginie Villede work.

The entrance retains the "Mademoiselle Privé" signage from the Chanel era.

The top floor houses three high-end bespoke workshops, where teams of experienced tailors, embroiderers, and craftspeople complete the pattern making, sewing, and entirely handcrafted production of haute couture gowns.

The large skylight on the top floor brings in natural light, meeting the lighting needs of the delicate handcrafted work.

Here we must mention Chanel's core vertical element: the mirror staircase.

The Art Deco style mirrored spiral staircase is the backbone of the entire building, extending from the ground floor to the second-floor apartments, with walls covered in mirrors.

  

Coco Chanel could sit at the top of the stairs and observe the guests in the salon and the reactions of the fashion show through the mirror reflections without having to be physically present. This structure is the brand's most iconic spatial symbol.

……

2:50 p.m., Creative Studio on the third floor of No. 31 Cambon Street.

Li Xun arranged the model profile cards in order on the worktable. Forty-three photos, forty-three body data sets, models from seventeen countries around the world—these were the models remaining after the initial screening, in addition to those already confirmed for the July Autumn/Winter Haute Couture Week auditions.

"Rhine, the new sample of Chanel 2.55 has arrived," the assistant designer said at the door.

"Put it over at the workshop, I'll go check on it at four o'clock."

Amélie nodded and left.

Li Xun continued flipping through the documents. Model interviews were one of the most tedious tasks before each haute couture week—no, not the most tedious, but the most prone to problems.

Height, shoulder width, chest circumference, waist circumference, hip circumference, leg length, gait, typhoon, temperament—every single data point must be correct. If it's wrong, the design has to be redone, which means doubling the working hours and costs, and the workshop will be furious.

He picked up a pen and marked several documents:

"Anna J. - Shoulder width is 1 unit wider than the data indicates. Measure again."

"Barbara Palvin - Her gait is a bit stiff, and she needs to try walking it more than three times."

"Liu Wen - Waist measurement data is questionable, actual measurement will be conducted this afternoon."

Virginia walked past him, glanced at the label: "Anna lied again?"

"That's right, last time it was waist circumference."

"Have her measure again this time; if she doesn't cooperate, change the measurement."

Li Xun wrote it down.

A sound came from downstairs, the kind of noise where you know who's there without even looking. It wasn't loud; everyone suddenly fell silent for a moment, then pretended to be more focused on their work.

Karl Lagerfeld appeared.

Sunglasses, black suit, white turtleneck shirt, signature silver ponytail, gloves, followed by Sebastian—Karl Lagerfeld's driver, butler, and bodyguard…

"Good afternoon, Mr. Carl." Virginia and Li Xun looked up.

"Good afternoon." Karl Lagerfeld took off his sunglasses and placed them on the worktable. "Model information."

Li Xun handed over the organized data cards.

The old lady flipped through the photos quickly, looking at each one for three to five seconds, pausing occasionally. She stopped at one particular photo, tapped it with her pen, and said, "This one."

Li Xun glanced at it. Sasha Pivovarova, a 24-year-old Russian model, is one of Prada's go-to faces.

"Her contract with Prada expires in June," Li Xun said.

"Is it confirmed?"

"Her agency said they are interested, but the terms haven't been discussed yet."

Carl didn't speak, but continued flipping through the documents. After finishing, he pulled out seven sheets and put them aside: "These seven will be interviewed first; the rest will proceed as usual."

Virginia took the seven priority lists and glanced at them: "Laura Stone and Carly are both on them."

Rollaston

卡莉克劳斯

"Is there a problem?"

"No problem, these two are very good."

The Empress Dowager took off her gloves and picked up the Coke that Li Xun had placed on the worktable—in reality, the Empress Dowager loved drinking zero-calorie Coke.

"The Shanghai proposal."

Li Xun pulled out a thick stack of design drafts from the folder.

This is the core project of Chanel's Fall/Winter 2009 Métiers d'Art collection – Paris-The Magic City.

The annual Métiers d'Art collection was established by Karl Lagerfeld in 2002 to showcase the exquisite craftsmanship of Chanel's workshops. Previously held in Tokyo, New York, Monte Carlo, London, and Moscow, it was chosen to take place in Shanghai this year.

But Shanghai in 2009 was unlike any other city I had ever visited before.

Amid the subprime crisis, with weak markets in Europe and the United States, China was one of the few regions that continued to grow.

LVMH and Richemont are both increasing their investment in the Chinese market, and Chanel is no exception. This show is not just a show, but a strategy.

"Has the fabric arrived?" he asked while flipping through the design drafts.

"The embroidery workshop just arrived yesterday; the supplier provided a total of seventeen samples," Li Xun replied.

"Lesage Workshop has conducted preliminary tests. The warp and weft densities of the three fabrics are suitable for embroidery, while the others are too soft and need to be reinforced."

The Empress Dowager nodded and continued flipping through the pages.

The core of this collection is the fusion of oriental elements with Chanel's classic vocabulary, but it is not the superficial "dragon pattern + Chinese knot button". Karl Lagerfeld never bothered to do that kind of thing. His direction was to extract the silhouette, fabric and craftsmanship logic of Chinese clothing and reinterpret it using Chanel's atelier techniques.

The tweed jacket features raglan sleeves integrated into the shoulder line.

The dress has a neckline inspired by the stand-up collar of a cheongsam, but it's been simplified to only two centimeters high.

"This one," Karl Lagerfeld said, pointing to the trench coat design sketch, "when will the pattern be ready?"

"The paper version will be ready at 5 PM tomorrow," Li Xun said. "The sample garment will be ready the day after tomorrow afternoon."

"Is there enough fabric?"

"There's only enough for three sample garments. The supplier said that the production volume of this handwoven fabric is very low."

He paused for a few seconds: "Then three pieces. After the final design is confirmed, have them produce the fabric according to the final design. Make as many pieces as they can produce. If they don't have enough, use alternative fabric, but make sure to label it clearly. Stores must differentiate between them when selling."

"And accessories." The old man turned to the last page. "What about the jewelry design from the Desrues workshop?"

"Samples will be available next week. The main element is camellia, but the process has been changed and the color is inspired by the sky blue of blue and white porcelain."

"Blue and white porcelain?"

"The blue color of Yuan Dynasty blue and white porcelain comes from cobalt oxide at high temperatures. Desrues Workshop used enamel to simulate that blue, creating three color levels, which you can see." Li Xun flipped through a color card in another folder.

Karl Lagerfeld took the color swatch and examined it against the light for a long time.

"This blue," he pointed to the middle shade, "is deeper than French blue, thicker than Klein blue, and has a porcelain-like texture. Let's use this one."

Li Xun wrote it down.

He handed the color swatch back to Li Xun: "Whose idea was this?"

"Regarding Virginia, the colorant supplier I found, Desrues Workshop, conducted the tests," Li Xun replied. "It took six months."

Virginia added, "Initially, fourteen blue formulas were tested, and in the end, only three remained."

"very good."

This was the highest praise he could receive from Karl Lagerfeld.

"Very good" is not "Great" or "Genius," it's just "Very good."

During his four years at Chanel, Li Xun heard Karl Lagerfeld say that the highest praise he could give to others was "not bad," while he said "very good" to himself twice: once now and once for the Himalayas collection in 2006.

"The guest list for the haute couture show," Karl Lagerfeld changed the subject. "Asia."

Virginia took a document from her worktable.

"At Paris Haute Couture Week, eight guests were invited from Asia: three actors, two singers, one director, one artist, and one entrepreneur." She spread out the documents.

"The key candidate is Ms. Zhou."

Karl Lagerfeld glanced at Li Xun.

Li Xun looked out the window.

"Rhine," Carl called to him.

"Um."

"Your opinion."

"I have no objection."

"You having no opinion means you have an opinion, but you don't want to say it."

Li Xun turned his face and said, "I really have no objection. Zhou is a very good actress. She has won the Golden Rooster Award and the Golden Horse Award. Her acting skills are not a problem. If the brand needs a Chinese face, she is a good choice."

"But you don't sign the proposal for brand ambassador," Virginie said.

"The proposal does not require my signature."

"But I asked for your opinion," Karl Lagerfeld said.

"You went around it."

The workbench was quiet for a few seconds.

"To be honest, this might offend your selection criteria."

"Speak," the old lady said, her tone completely unchanged.

"Zhou's acting skills are impeccable, but she is not a fashion influencer. Her usual dressing style is more casual and artistic, which is far from the tone of haute couture."

If Chanel wanted a Chinese face that could represent the brand's image, I might recommend someone else. But I haven't decided who that "someone else" is yet, so I said I have no opinion.

"You don't like her style," Virginie said bluntly.

"It's not that I don't like it, it's just that it doesn't suit me. The way she wears Chanel looks like she borrowed it. A brand ambassador wearing Chanel should look like she's wearing it herself, and besides, her height..."

After listening, Karl Lagerfeld picked up his Coke and took another sip.

"you're right."

Li Xun was stunned for a moment.

"Zhou certainly doesn't look like someone who wears Chanel." He put down his glass.

"But that's Paris's perspective. What about the Chinese market?"

Virginia continued, "The Greater China team has conducted research and found that Zhou has a high level of public recognition in China. She is seen as a profound actress, not a traffic star. If we want a long-term brand ambassador, her career lifespan and public favorability are more stable than many popular stars."

"Stable," the old lady repeated the word. "That word is boring."

"But it's very practical," Virginia replied, tilting her head, "especially in the current economic climate."

Karl Lagerfeld didn't speak, but tapped his pen on the worktable.

Li Xun knew this habit; the old lady was pondering, torn between a business decision and her aesthetic intuition. He had experienced such moments many times.

"If it were me," he finally spoke, "I would choose her, but our little Rhine doesn't support it, so there's nothing I can do. I need the names of the guests and the brand ambassador for the China region in two days, so this is the decision."

The old lady raised her head, her eyes sharp. She didn't give Li Xun a chance to refuse at all, she was extremely domineering.

Virginia smiled slightly, while Li Xun frowned slightly.

"Is there a problem?"

"no."